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When doing your woodwork, it is important to know about forming wooden joints when cutting your pieces. Either hand or power tools can be used for cutting wood for joints. Hand tools are usually less expensive and easier to control; in experienced hands, power tools make a wider variety of cuts for joints faster and often more precisely.
Wooden joints can be madefrom three basic cuts: a simple through cut (a cut all the way through a board), a rabbet cut (two cuts at 90 degrees angles to each other at a board's end) and a dado cut (a groove falling intermediately along a board). Some of these cuts are easy to make with either hand or power tools; others are not feasible without the help of power tools.
Some wood joinery methods:
Butt joints and miters are the easiest wooden joints to make; you just saw through the pieces and fit them together. Both kinds are weak; they require fastening with glue, glue blocks, nails, screws, bolts, dowels or splines.
The simple rabbet cut is stronger and shows less end grain than a butt joint. Secure it with glue and fasteners.
A dado cut is a strong way to inset a support or hold a shelf. Glue alone will hold some dadoes.
End laps and cabinet corner wooden joints are made from two corresponding rabbets, cut at the end of joining pieces. The cuts in the rails are easily made with a handsaw; those across the broader surfaces may require a power saw. Although rabbet joints are stronger than butt joints and miters, they need to be strengthened with glue and sometimes with fasteners.
Cross lap joints are made by cutting matching dadoes in two pieces. Some don't need glue or fasteners; they are ideal where you want to dismantle joints.
Mortise and tenon variations are made by cutting (sometimes quite deeply) a dado in one piece to interlock with a mortise at the end of another. Cutting the mortise is similar to cutting a multiple rabbet. A box joint is like several open mortises and tenons. The stop dado and stub mortise and tenon, both will hold a shelf without exposing the dado groove. The single dovetail is a lock-type joint.
Dowels make simple wooden joints strong. All you do is drill holes for the dowels in each piece (special "dowel centers" are available for centering the dowels in both halves), cut the dowels to a size slightly shorter than the combined depth of matching holes, score small grooves along the dowels so glue can escape the holes, spread glue along each dowel, insert them and clamp the joint tight.
A wooden spline, inserted in saw kerfs, is a sure and simple way to strengthen miters and butt joints. A spline's width should be slightly less than combined depth of kerfs. Glue first and then clamp.
Marking the lines, making the right cut and using the proper tools are important when forming wooden joints.
Sources:
Sam Allen (1990). Wood Joiner's Handbook. Sterling Publishing. ISBN 0-8069-6999-7
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